The information passed over the Class 2 serial data line, along with dedicated circuits to specific sensors and modules, provides the inputs which are used to operate all the gauges, indicators and the message center in the cluster. The instrument cluster micro processor communicates with other modules in the vehicle over the Class 2 serial data line. The standard instrument cluster contains a microprocessor. Q: Does the interior dimmer rheostat have an affect on any other interior lighting? I might have to utilize my school’s resources though, so I might not respond until sometime tomorrow. I’m going to try to do some further study to see how it can be tested. Perhaps it is possible that the dimmer is stuck in a ‘off’ or ‘low’ setting and has since been rendered unresponsive. One thing that all your affected devices have in common is the dimmer rheostat. It is quite possible that you are only 1 ignition lock cylinder away from restoring your lights. I believe it would be worth your time to perform the testing on the ignition circuit as stated in the TSB. I like the TSB stating that it might just be an open in the ignition switch. One thing that I wasn’t sure if I wanted to include in the above list is to check the affected non-working devices by applying power directly to the affected circuits/devices from an outside source and see if they light up. if an open cannot be detected, splice into known good circuit close to the fuse box and run a parallel line to the associated affected device(s) visually inspect wiring for a possible open in the circuit.Perform ‘wiggle test’ on all wiring harnesses.disconnect and reconnect all associated wiring harnesses (as per TSB).Remove the 2 aforementioned devices from the dash.Basic electrical testing needs to be performed.īased on the TSB’s recommendations as well as my own knowledge of basic electrical theroy, I have devised a general strategy to help remedy your problem with the IPC and HVAC temperature control head: I found this after buying an LCM so i hope this helps someone.Is it the wiring ignition switch/starter or just the Ignition Key Switch/Lock? The one that you disconnect and backlight comes on is where the short is. Once found, isolate different feeds while checking for the backlight. If not, search the interior convenience lighting wiring schematic for your car and find X1019 and X1039 which are splices for the grey/red feed. In my case, when the armrest was bolted to the frame, the harness running to the ashtray at the back of the centre console was pinched so over time, the insulation wre away and the live grey/red grounded and hence the short. This line feeds the cluster back lighting, aircon backlighting, red convenience LEDs in interior light, and BOTH ashtray convenience lighting as well as the window switch back lighting. If you have a short, trace the grey/red line as it is touching the chassis somewhere. The reason the fuses in the fuse box don't blow is the LCM apparently has a short failsafe which just drops the voltage so other thigs work. In the sedans mostly, if you have checked your DICE, and boot lid harness for shorts, then use a fused 12v to supply the grey/red line coming from the LCM (you have to pull out LCM but keep it connected). Don't know if you ever found the solution but thought I would provide my fix given I spent 3 days fixing this.
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